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» » ISLAND OF SULU

ISLAND OF SULU

Sulu is an island of irregular shape and among the islands of the
Archipelago is next in size to Basilan. Its longest diameter runs east
and west and approximates 37 miles, while its average length does not
exceed 32 miles. Its greatest width is 14 miles and its average width
about 10 miles. The main structure of the island is volcanic, but it is
surrounded with a coral reef formation, which is most extensive in the
bays and on the south.

Two indentations of the northern shore at Jolo and Si'it and two
corresponding indentations of the southern shore at Maymbung and
Tu'tu^, divide the island into three parts — ^western, middle> and eastern.

The Bay of Jolo is quite open and faces the northwest. It is very
shallow near the shore and its head constitutes the roadstead of Jolo.
The Bay of Maymbung is a deeper indentation, but it is narrower and
shallower than the Bay of Jolo. The town of Maymbung lies at the
head of the bay and is about 9 miles south of Jolo in a direct line.

The Bays of Si'it and Tu'tu' indent the island to such an extent as to
leave only a neck of land, loss than 4 miles wide, connecting the middle
and eastern parts of the island. The settlement of Si'it lies at the
head of the bay and in the immediate vicinity of a small lake of the
same name. The shores of the Bay of Tu'tu' are mai-shy and are covered


witli mangrove trees. Tlie bay is very sliallow to a considerable distance
from shore. Tn'tu' is the principal settlement near the head of the
bay.

The backbone of the island is a mountain range which runs east and
west and lies nearer to the northern shore. The highest point is Mount
Timiangtangis, at the western extremity of the range. This mountain
reaches a height of 853 nieters above sea leavel and descends very rapidly
to the western coast near Timahu. A spur of the mountain terminates
in Point Pugut at the northwestern extremity of the island.^

Toward the east, the ridge descends to a much lower level at Bud Datu,
Bud Agad, and Bud PuJa, which lie immediately to the south of Jolo.
It rises again in Mount Dahu to an altitude of 716 meters. Mount Dahu
is a prominent landmark and forms the most picturesque landscape in
the background of Jolo. It is a steep and conical extinct volcano,
similar to, but smaller and more regular in form than Mount Tumang-
tangis. East of Mount Dahu is another gap in which lies Tambang
Pass. Beyond this the range rises again at Mount Tambang and con-
tinues uninterrupted to Mount Sinuma^an, at the extreme end of Lati,
and Mount Bagshag. After Mount Bagshag the range descends gradu-
ally toward Su^ and Si'it. The northern slopes of Mount Tumangtangis
and Mount Dahu, and the crest of Bud Datu are covered with grand
forests, while the crests and lower slopes of Bud Agad and Bud Pula
are partly cultivated and partly covered with tall grass.

From the shores of the Bay of Jolo the land rises gradually and
presents a beautiful green appearance. The northern aspect of this
whole range and its beauty were appropriately described by Mr. Hunt,
as follows :

There are few landscapes in the world that exhibit a more delightful appear-
ance than the seacoasts of Si|lu; the luxuriant variety of the enchanting hills
exhibits a scenery hardly ever equaled and certainly never surpassed by the i>encil of the artist. Some with majestic woods that wave their lofty heads to the very
summits; others with rich pasturage delightfully verdant, with here and there
patches burnt for cultivation, which form an agreeable contrast with enameled
meads; others, again, exhibit cultivation to the mountain top, checkered with
groves affording a grateful variety to the eye — in a word, it only requires the
decorations of art and civilized life to form' a terrestrial paradise.-

To the south of Bagshag ^ lies a small extinct volcano called Panamaw
or Pandakan, whose crater is now a lake. East of Si^it rise the Lu\ik
mountains of Urut, Upao, and Tayungan. From these the range extends
to Bud Tandu at tbe eastern extremity of the island.


The highlands near tlie soiitliern coast of the island divide into three
separate regions. The first and westernmost lies west of Maymbung
and forms the ])rincipal highlands of Parang. The highest points in
this region are Mount Tukay, east of the town of Parang, and Mount
Mabingkang, east of Tukay. To the east of Maymbung rise Mount Ta-
lipao and Moimt Kuraaputkut, whieli form the middle and second region.
The third region is the southern part of the Lu'uk country. Its highest
point is Mount Bulag, to the north of Tandu-Panu'an.

Between Mount Tukay and Mount Tumangtangis lies Bud Gapang.
Midway between Blount Talipao and Bud Datu is Mount Kurauray, in
the neighborhood of Langhub.

The largest streams on the island are Tubig Palag and Bina'an. The
first is generally known as the Maymbung liiver. It passes through the
settlement of Maymbung and empties into the head of the bay of the
same name. It drains the southern slopes of Mounts Tumangtangis,
Pula, Dahu, and Kumuray. The Bina'an stream drains the southern
slopes of Mount Sinuma'an and the northern slopes of Mounts Talipao
and Kumaputkut and empties into the Bay of Tu'tu'.

PRINCIPAL COAST SETTLEMENTS

Beginning at Jolo and going west along the northern coast we pass
the following points of intercut : The first is Point Baylam, the western
limit of the Bay of Jolo. At the head of the small bay that follows lies
the settlement of ]\[atanda, where a Spanish blockhouse marks the
western limit of the Jolo line of fortifications. Xext comes Point
Mangalis and the receding beach of Bwansa, the old capital of Sulu.
Here and in the next ba}^ at Malimbay and Kansaya, Samal boats as-
semble in favorable weather for fishing. Back of these settlements the
land rises rapidly to Mount Tumangtangis. A teak forest of considerable
size lies between Tumangtangis and Jolo.

Outside of the wall of Jolo and to the east lies the settlement of
Busbus, where criminals formerly were chopped to death after being
tied to a tree. A mile })eyond is Mubu, where, the old residence of
Sultan Harun stands out prominently. Copious springs of fresh water
issue at this place at a point near the high-water mark. A mile farther
east we come to Taudu (point or cape), where Datu Kalbi lives. This
point is generally known as Tandu Dayang Ipil ^ and marks the
eastern limit of the Bay of Jolo. The isolated hill of Patikul rises im-
mediately behind Tandu. The settlement of Patikul lies still farther
away on the beach. Here lives Datu Julkarnayn (Alexander the (ireat),
the brother of Datu Kalbi. The beautiful region lying between Patikul
and the mountains of Tambang and Sinuma'an is called Lati.
Buhanginan lies about midway between Patikul and Higasan. At the
latter place or Tandu Manuk-manuk the shore line recedes toward
the south. Opposite this point lies the Island of Bakungan. Next comes
the larger settlement of Taglibi, above which rises Mount Ta'ung; then
Bunbun, near a point whicli marks the western entrance into the Bay of
Si'it. Midway between Bunbun and the head of the bay is Su', which
may be said to mark the boundary line between Lati and Lu'uk. Si'it
is a small settlement near the head of the bay. Beyond Si'it the shore
line turns north until it reaches Kansipat. About 2 miles farther, a
semicircular reef off the shore makes the excellent and well-protected
small harbor of Bwal. A large spring of pure, fresh water adds to this
place another natural advantage, one which gave it the prominence it
had in former days. The entrance into the harbor is very shallow and
allows only sailboats of light draft. The channel lies close to the shore
on the west side. Opposite the Island of Tulayan lie Tandu-batu and
a little farther inland Kuta Makis. Limawa lies about 3 miles farther
on near a point opposite the Island of Buli Kuting. Behind this island
and at the head of a shallow cove lies Patutul, the chief settlement of
Tandu. East of Bud Taiidu is Tandu Pansan, the easternmost point
of the island. The eastern coast is exposed to storms and appears rocky
and barren, though the hills behind it are well cultivated.

The first point on the southera coast is Tandu Panu'an, behind which
lies the settlement of Sukuban. This marks the southern extremity of
the boundary line between Tandu and Lu'uk. The country behind Kuta
Sihi' and Pitugu appears rich and well tilled. The hills come down to
the beach. Near the point at the eastern limit of Tu'tu' Bay lies Kam-
bing. The neighboring country is rich and prosperous. It is governed
by Maharaja Bayrula, one of the wisest and best chiefs of Sulu. West
of Kambing lie Pandang-pandang, Tubu-manuk, and Tu'tu'. The shore ,
is a continuous mangrove marsh, while the country behind is about the
richest and best tilled land on the whole island. The western side of
Tu'tu' Bay has few places of importance. The country behind is pic-
turesque and hilly, but not as well populated as other parts of the island.
Lubuk, Kabungkul, and Lumapit are the chief settlements.

Beyond the point of Buhangin Puti', the shore line bends again north
and the Bay of ]\Iaymbung begins. Here mangrove swamps are ex-
tensive and extend a good distance inland. The greater part of Maym-
bung is built on piles over the water. It is surrounded by swamps on
all sides. After the tide recedes, strong odors arise from the muddy
bottom to such an extraordinary degree as to render the atmosphere of
the place very disagrcH?able and often unbearable to strangers. The
center of the town is a small, open square of reclaimed land filled with
coral rocks. Around this square were built the houses of Sultan Jamalul
A'lam and his ministers of state. The present sultan lives on a hill about

half a mile inland from the town. The square was probably the site of
the Maymbung fort which was destroyed by General Arolas in 1887.
Some Chinese traders live in the town and export hemp, pearls, pearl
shells, etc., through Jolo. The population of the town arid its immediate
suburbs varies considerably, but it is generally estimated at 1,000.
Beyond Maymbung the coast bendS sharply to the south. In the im-
mediate vicinity of Maymbung lies Bwalu. A mile west of this place
begins the district of Parang. After Lipid and Lapa comes Kaba-
li'an, the western limit of the Bay of Maymbung. The shore line then
takes a more westerly direction. Passing Dandulit and Lakasan, we
reach Tandu Put, where the western coast of the island begins. This
southern region of Parang is well populated and is very pretty and
productive. Cultivated areas are seen on the side of the mountains every-
where and they reach the very summit of Mount Tukay.

The town of Parang is one of the largest settlements on the island
and has, at present, an estimated population of 1,000. It is situated
at the head of a small open bay facing the southwest and commands a
beautiful view of Tapul and Lugus and the intervening sheet of water.
It is the capital of the district and has one of the best markets in the
Archipelago for fish, shells, and pearls. The drinking water in this
neighborhood is brackish.

An islet lies off the shore near Tandu Bunga. Beyond this point the
shore line turns north to Bwisan, which is one of the most prosperous
settlements in the district. Beyond Alu Pangku' the coast inclines a
little east and runs to Silankan and Timaliu. Extensive coconut groves
and well-cultivated fields and fruit trees of various kiuds abound all
along the coast from Parang to Timahu.
 
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