The Sulu Archipelago is a series of small volcanic islands which
extends in a northeast and southwest direction between the meridians
of 119° 10' and 132° 25' east, and the parallels of 4° 30' and 6° 50'
north. It forms a continuous chain of islands, islets, and coral reefs,
which connects the peninsula of Zamboanga with the northeastern ex-
tremity of Borneo aaid separates the Sulu Sea from the Celebes Sea. It
marks the southern line of communication between the Philippine Is-
lands and Borneo and is probably the chief route of former emigrations
and travel from Borneo to Mindanao and the southern Bisayan Islands.
The islands of the Archipelago are so disposed as to form several
smaller groups, the most important of which are the following: The
Basilan Group, the Balangingi or Samal Group, the Sulu Group, the
Pangutaran Group, the Tapul or Siasi Group, and the Tawi-tawi Group.
The Basilan Group is the first on the north and includes the Island
of Basilan and fifty-six small adjacent islands, all of which lie north of
the parallel of 6° 15' north and east of the meridian of 121° 19' east.
This group, under the name of Basilan, constituted the sixth district of
the politico-military government of Mindanao, organized by the Spanish
Government in 1861. Since that date the islands forming this group
have not been recognized politically as a part of the Sulu Archipelago.
Basilan is the largest island in the Archipelago. Its northernmost
point is about 10 miles directly south of Zamboanga. The island is
more or less circular in outline and has a radius approximately 11 miles
long. Its area is about 400 square miles. Two prominent headlands
projecting, one on the east and one on the west, give the island a
maximum length of 36 miles. The greatest width, north and south,
is 24 miles. The eastern headland is long and has a picturesque, conical
peak, called Mount Matangal, which rises about 648 meters above sea
level. This peak is a very prominent landmark, visible to a great distance
from all points in the Celebes Sea and in the Straits of Basilan. The
western headland is less prominent. It has an isolated peak about 287
meters above the sea, immediately north of the settlement of Pangasa^an.
The position of this peak makes it a conspicuous landmark to vessels
entering the Straits of Basilan from the Sulu Sea.
The surface of the island is high and hilly. Twenty-tliree peaks are
recognized, forming two distinct series or ranges, central and peripheral.
The central region of the island is an elevated tableland, out of which
rise a number of peaks forming the central series and ranging from
609 to 1,019 meters above sea level. A thick forest covers this region.
The rivers are small and dry up in the dry season. Few Yakans are
to be found there, and their houses are isolated and far apart. No
cultivation is carried on in the interior. On the outside of this region
rises the peripheral series of hills or peaks which lies parallel and near
to the coast. With the exception of two, all of these peaks are below
304 meters in height. The drop from this line of hills to the coast
is rapid in some places, and in general the shore line is low and swampy
and covered with mangrove trees. The three largest valleys in the
island are those of Gubawan or Lamitan on the northeast, Kumalarang
on the northwest, and Malusu on the west. This region is generally '
considered fertile, but it has a marked dry season and droughts are not
rare.
The island is very rich. in timber; all its hills and mountains are
forest-clad to their summits. Excellent boats are constructed on the
south and west coasts of the island which rival the Tawi-tawi boats in
every particular. A few Americans have started hemp and coconut
plantations on the north coast, but native cultivation is not extensive
and compares very poorly with that of the Islands of Sulu, Tapul, and
Siasi. Most of the cultivation on the island is carried on by Yakans,
the Samals living chiefly on the products of the sea. The staple prod-
ucts of the soil are rice, tapioca, and corn. Ubi (a kind of tuber used
as food), camotes (sweet potatoes), and wild fruits abound. The number
of cattle is not inconsiderable, but horses are few. Most of the settle-
ments on the island are on the sea coast and lie on the north and west
coasts. The larger ones, beginning at Isabela and going east, are, on the
north, Isabela, Patasan or Balakta,san, Malu'ung, Nipa, Lamitan, Ta-
gima, and Kandi'is; on the east, Tambunan, Buhi-lubung, and Ubung;
on the south, Amalwi, Giyung, and Mangal; on the west, Libuk, Kabka-
ban, Kanas, Malusu, and Pangasa'an; on the north, Bulansa, Atung-
atung, Batanay, and Panigayan.^ The prominent chiefs of the island
live at Lamitan, Ubung, and Malusu, which form the principal centers
of native power. The old name of Basilan was Tagima, so called after
the name of the old settlement of Tagima mentioned above.
is Pasangan, which is still the name of the stream at the mouth of which
it is built. The town is situated 4 miles inland, on the narrow channel
which separates Basilan from the small island of Malamawi. The chan-
nel widens a little at this point and forms an excellent harbor. Under
Spanish jurisdiction it was a naval station with a dry dock for gunboats.
An aqueduct furnishes the town with fresh water brought from a small
stream in the neighborhood. The stone fort Isabel II, built on the hill
in 1842, commands both entrances of the channel. It was designed
to defend the town against the Moros. The abandonment of the town
as a naval station has led to its present decline. An American sawmill
planted there has been the chief source of lumber supply for the town of
Zamboanga and neighborhood.
The largest islands in this group, excepting Basilan, are Baluk-baluk
and Pilas, both of which lie west of Basilan. A narrow channel which
lies in the direct route leading from Zamboanga lo Jolo separates these
two islands. Tapiantana, Salupin, Bubwan, and Lanawan arc the
largest islands of the group south of Basilan.
The population of this whole group is generally estimated at 25,000.
Of these, 15,000 live in Basilan itself. The inliabitants of Basilan
proper are Yakans and Samals, while the adjacent islands are occupied
entirely by Samals. The Yakans are the aborigines of Basilan and
extend farther into the interior than the Samals.
Basilan never enjoyed political independence. Before Spanish rule
it was governed by Sulu datus and paid tribute to the Sultan of Sulu.
Under the datus, subordinate Samal panglimas ^ and maharajas ^ had
charge of the various communities or settlements. The Samals of Basi-
lan are at present stronger than other Samals and. enjoy a greater degree
of liberty and self-government than their brothers in the Tawi-tawi
Group.
The Balangingi Group lies east of the meridian of 121° 28' east, and
to the sauth of the Basilan Group. It has nineteen islan-ds, the principal
ones of which are Tonkil, Balangingi, Simisa, Tatalan, Bukutwa, Bulim,
Bangalaw. The islands of this group are small and low and do not
exceed 38 square miles in area. Tlieir inhabitants are Samals. The
people of Balangingi and Tonkil were notorious pirates. They built
strong forts and once surpassed all other Samals in power, political or-
ganization, and prosperity.
The Sulu Group lies west of the Balangingi Group and north of the
])arallel of 5° 46' north. Its western boundary may be sent at the
meridian of 120° 46' east. It consists of about twenty-nine islands with
a total area of 380 square miles. The principal island of this group is
Siilu. To the north of Hulu lie Panga^inan, Maroiiga^, Kahiikan, Bu-
bwan, Minis, Hegad, and a few otliers; to the east lie Tulayan^ Kapwal,
and Bitinan; to the south, Pata and Pat van.
Tulayan lies north of Tandu and is ^^^eparated from it by a narrow
strait. It has a good harbor on the southern side. It was eeded to the
English in 17G3 by Sultan Alimud Din T out of appreciation of the favor
done in releasing him from prison in Manila and reinstating him as
Sultan of Sulu. The English, however, never made any use of the island.
Pata is, next to Sulu, the largest island of the group. It is moun-
tainous and well populated. The description of the Island of Sulu is
given separately at the end of this chapter. •
The Panguiaran Group lies west of the Sulu Group and north of the
sixth parallel. It has fourteen islands and an area of 72 square miles.
The principal members of the group are Pangutaran, Pandukan, North
Ubian, Laparan, and Tababas or Cap. They are all low and flat with
little more than trees visible from the sea. They are surrounded by
coral reefs and sand banks, which in places form lagoons which can be
entered only at high water. The drinking w^ater in these islands is
brackish in the hot season and has a black color during rains. Very
often the people go as far as the Island of Sulu to get good water.
Pangutaran is the fifth island in the Archipelago in size, being 11 miles
long, north and south, and 8 miles wide, from east to west. Its chief
settlement is Maglakub. Its northern and eastern coa^^ts are the best
populated. The inhabitants of this group are chiefly Samals; few Sulus
are found mixed with them. Coconut trees and tapioca plants grow well
in places.
The Siasi Group lies to the south and west of the Sulu Group, east
of the meridian of 120° XV east, and north of the parallel of 5° 24'
north. It has thirty-eight islands with an aggregate area of 77 square
miles. Its population is estimated at 20,000. The principal islands of
this group are Siasi, Pandami, Lugus, Tapul, Laminusa, and Kabinga'an.
The first four are volcanic islands of some size; the la*st two are low
and flat. Tapul is the nearest island of tlie group to Sulu. It is more
or less round in circumference and rises in the middle to a picturesque
conical peak 505 meters above the sea. It is about 5 miles in diameter
and is separated from Lugus by a very narrow channel. The island is
8 miles south of Sulu Island, is well cultivated, and appears very
attractive from the sea. It su])ports a considerable population and has
several fairly prosperous settlements. The ])eople are mostly Sulus;
they are very warlike and take great pride in their traditions.
The chief settlement of this island is Kanawi, where lives Sharif
Alawi, the strongest chief on the island. Buhangin Ilawpu, Pangpang,
and Pagatpat lie on the southern coast, east of Kanawi. The settlements
on the western coast are, beginning at the south, Suba Pukul, Kawim-
pang, Tigbas, Banting, Kutabatu, Bagus^ on the northern coast, Ka-
winipang, Pangdan; on the east<?rn coast, Sampunay, Tuhxkan.
Lugus is a larger island. Its long diameter extends 1) miles east
and west, and it lias an area of 18 square miles. It is hilly and rough;
but the northern shore is fairly well cultivated.
The chief settlements are on the western coast. They are Basbas,
where Datu Amilusin used to live, and Bulipungpung. On the north
lie, beginning at the etist, Gapas, Ba'it-ba'it, and Hawit, the place of
Maharaja Sharafud Din; on the east Kalu'ukan, the residence of Pang-
Hma Salahud Din; and on the south Aluduyung, and the Island of
Munupumi.
Siasi and Pandami are separated by a nan-ow channel which forms a
good anchorage for vessels. Siasi is prettier than Tapul in form and is
larger, but not equally wooded. It has an isolated, conical, and beautiful
peak in the center rising to a ht^ight of oOf) meters above sea level. The
island is about 7 miles in diameter and has an area of 39 square miles.
Reefs and numerous islets form a fringe off the east and south coasts
and these teem with Samal houses. It is thickly settled, fairly well
cultivated, and has, in proportion to its size, a considerable number of
horses and cattle. The majority of the people are Samals, but the chief
i-ulers and some of their retinues are Hulus. In this respect this
island follows the general i*ule governing all the larger islands of the
Archipelago outside of Sulu Island. The town of Siasi is on the western
side. It lies on the Pandami (•hannel and has a good harbor. A spring
rising at the base of the western slope of the mountain supplies the
town with fresh water.
A detachment of Spanish troops occupied the town in 1882 and built
a stone fort and barracks. American troops w^ere there from 1900 to
1904, when they were relieved by a detachment of the Philippine Con-
stabulary. An effort was made in 1899 by the preseilt sultan, Jamalul
Kiram II, to retain Siasi under his own jurisdiction for the establishment
of a custom-house where he could collect duties on foreign goods, as
was formerly done by his father; but no such rights were conceded to
him. Siasi is a closed port at present. The residents of the town are
Samals and Chinese traders. They vary from 500 to 700 in number.
The other settlements on the island are, on the north, Siyundu, Pagatpat,
and Manta; on the east, Pamungunan, Tanjun, Sipanding, and Buli-
kulul; on the south, Dugu, Latimg, and Musu ; on the west, Nipanipa,
Jambanganan, Dungus, and Sablay; in the interior, Kabubu, Ju, and
Kungatad. Siasi and Laminusa are important centers of pearl and
shell fishing. About 2,000 Samals live on Laminusa.
Pandami is an attractive island. Its long dianu'ter runs north and
south. Two round peaks, one at each end of the island, give it the shape
of a saddle and make a picturesque sight from the sea. The people
are chiefly Samals niled by Sulu datus. Its best settlements are on
the west and south. The name given to this island on Spanish maps
is Lapak, which is the name of one of its southern settlements. The
northern extremity of the island is Diadia Point, the northeast projection
is Butun Point. The chief settlements on the west are, beginning at
the north, Subasuba, Tabunan, Pari'an Pandami, Tubig-shina, Lalii, and
Sibawud, which lies on a reef off the southern point of the island. On
the east lie Ambilan, Bakal, and Lapak. Laminusa and Kabinga'an
lie to the east of Siasi. They are small but thickly populated by Samals.
The chief settlements of Laminusa are Tampan on the north and
Kimgkung on the south.
The TavA'tawi Group lies to the south and west of the Tapul Group
and extends as far west as the Sibutu Passage. This is the largest
group in number and area, including eighty-eight islands with a combined
area of 462 square miles. Its population is estimated at 25,000. These
islands form two distinct divisions or subgroups, differing in both extent
and population.
The first or northern division includes Bangao, Sangasanga, Tawi-
tawi, Tandu-batu, and a large number of smaller islands, all of which
are rough, volcanic, mountainous, and very sparsely populated. The
second or southern division is a series of low, flat islands which are
smaller in area but more thickly populated than those of the northern
division. The principal names, beginning at the east, are the following :
Kinapusan, Bintulan, Tabawan, South Ubian, Tandubas, Sikubun, La-
ta'an, Mantabwan, Banaran, Bilatan, Manuk-manka, and Simunul. Ex-
tensive reefs and narrow channels and shoals separate these islands from
one another and from those of the northern division, rendering navigation
between them impossible except in vessels of very light draft.
Bangao, Sanga-sanga, and Tawi-tawi are separated by very narrow
channels and are practically one island. Bangao forms the southwest
extremity and is substantially one solid rock which rises perpendicularly
to a height of 228 meters. It is a conspicuous landmark to vessels going
through the Sibutu Passage. The town of Bangao is a military station
and an open port; it has an excellent landlocked harbor and a very poor
water supply. The town has been occupied by troops since 1882, but it
has never attained any size or importance.
Tawi-tawi Island is a continuous range of hills covered by thick and
rich forests. The highest points in the range are the Dromedary peaks
(591 meters) lying about the center of the island. The lengtli of the
island is about 34 miles and its greatest width 14 miles. It is next in
size to the Island of Sulu, but it is very sparsely populated. Its chief
settlements are Tungpatung, Balimbang, Lissum, and Bu'an on the
south coast, and Tawi-tawi, Tata'an, Butung, Tumhubung, Tumbaga^an,
Languyan, and Bas on the north. At Balimbang are built the best
types of Sulu and Samal boats. Good timber abounds in the neighbor-
ing hills, and the little bay is transformed into a shipyard. The town
used to be a famous rendezvous for Samal pirates. Tata^an had formerly
a Spanish garrison; the present Moro town is a little distance to the
south of the ruins of the fort and is called Butung. It is built on the
hillside and commands a pretty view of the sea. It lies 100 miles east of
Lahat Datu, East Borneo. The anchorage is deep and safe, being well
protected by a large semicircle of reefs. A boa 30 feet long was killed
on the island in 1903. Kubber and gntta-perclia are found on this
island. Tapioca and uhi are the staple products.
Sibutu lies in a little group of the same name, situated between the
Tawi-tawi Group and Borneo and at a distance of about 15 miles from
each. The Sibutu Passage separates it from Manuk-manka, the southern-
most island of the Tawi-tawi Group, and the Alice Channel from Borneo.
This. island did not lie within the limits of the Philippine Islands as
defined in the Treaty of Peace of December 10, 1898. It was ceded by
Spain with Kagayan Sulu, by a separate treaty in November, 1900. Its
close proximity to Borneo renders it a convenient stopping place for
small Moro boats navigating between Borneo and Sulu. Sitanki, an
island and town, is the trade center of this group, and has just lately
been made an open port.