Jolo is the Spanish representation (or rather misrepresentation) of
tlie word Sulu, sometimes written Sooioo. The early Spaniards wrote
it "Xolo," which later changed to Jolo. The complete form of the word
is Suing, as it is rendered in Magindanao. The Sulus pronounce it and
write it Sug. SUg means a sea current. The flow of the tide through
the innumerable narrow cliannels separating the numerous islands of the
Archipelago gives rise to unusually strong currents which figure promi-
nently in the seafaring life of the people. Therefore the term is an
appropriate designation for the Archipelago as a whole.
The rulers of the island state have changed their capital four times.
The most ancient ca})ital was Maymhung, the second was Bwansa, which
lies on the north coast of the island about 3 miles west of Jolo.
Here ruled llaja Baginda and the first three sultans of Sulu. The
fourth sultan moved to Sug, the third capital, and the town remained
the capital of the sultanate until 187G, the dat^ of the Spanish conquest
and occupation. Sultan Jamalul Aiam then moved to Maymbung and
the Spaniards occupied the town. Since then the term Jolo has become
so intimately associated with it, that it is deemed preferable to use it
as a name for the town, while the term Sulu, which is more correct and
more commonly used, is retained in all other applications.
The town of Jolo has been so closely identified with the history of the
sultanate as to claim considerable attention. The Spanish buildings
and improvements were sufficiently extensive to obscure the ancient land-
marks of the town and to render a complete and intelligent understand-
ing of the early history and traditions of the place impracticable. A few
words describing the location of Jolo, its ancient landmarks, and the
Spanish improvements will therefore be of primary interest.
The town as it stands at present is divided into four distinct parts.
The main or central part is Jolo proper or the "walled town." This is
known to the Moros as Tiyangi Sfig meaning the "shops or market of
Sulu.-' The western half of this pai-t bordering on Suba' Bawang for-
merly was termed Luway. The second part, called San Remondo, lies
back and south of the walled town and is separated from it by a little
stream called Tubig llasa'an. The third part is Tulay and lies on the
west side; the fourth is Busbus, on the east side.
At the head of the roadstead separating the Puehlo niirro or Tulay
from Jolo proper or Luway is a small tidal stream formerly called Suba'
Bawang. Some mai)s designate it as Ilio del Sultan. This stream
ext^iuds back into a swamp and divides into two branches. The main
or direct branch extends in a more or less southerly direction to a point
al)out 700 meters from the mouth of the stream, where it rises in copious
springs of fresh water at the edge of the swamp. The other branch is
formed by the junction of the rivulet that rises in the springs of San
Remondo with Tubig Ilasa'an. The latter has its origin at the foot of
the hills above the cemetery and Blockhouse No. 2. Ilasa'an means
grindstone, and the springs are said to have burst out of the spot where
a grindstone was set for use. Another stream, termed Suba' Ligayan,
drains the northern slopes of Buds Datu and Agad, and running north,
passes by Fort Asturias and through Tulay, and empties into the road-
stead of Jolo at a point about 250 meters west of the mouth of Suba^
Bawang. A branch of this stream formerly issued at Asturias and con-
nected with the main stream of Suba' Bawang. The land which thus
lay between Suba' Bawang and Suba' Ligayan was a delta. It was
called by the Moros u-laya (that is, the head of the net) because of its
triangular shape. It was mostly marshy, but it had a central longitudinal
strip of dry land which practically connected Tulay with the base of
the hills at Asturias. At the upper end of this strip there existed at
one time a well-defined, sandy spot, different in formation from the
surrounding land, which was considered sacred and was supposed to be
the first land formed on the island. This spot was Sug proper; after it
was named the whole settlement which was built along the banks of
Suba' Bawang and at the head of the roadstead.
The Sultan's palace, termed istana, his kuta (fort) and stockades
were built along the lower left bank of the stream Bawang; hence the
name Rio del Sultan. On the right bank lay the houses and stockades
of the other datus of high rank. Two bridges connected one side of the
stream with the other.
On the outskirts of the town lay various kuta belonging to subordinate
datus, which defended the approaches to the town. The most famous
of these kuta was Daniel's Fort, the best stronghold of Sulu. On the
site of this fort was built in 1878 the fort or redoubt of Alfonso XII,
which was lately replaced by the present headquarters building of the
military post of Jolo. Another strong fort was built at the foot of
the hills just above the head of the delta above described; it defended
the inland approach to the town. This was Panglima Arabi's kuta, on the
site of which Fort Asturias was erected. Another kuta was located on
Point Baylam.
The principal part of the town was formerly built over the shoal and
beach at the head of the bay. Extensive rows of buildings stretched out
into the roadstead and in front of the buildings now occupied as the
clubhouse and military hospital. The present "Chinese pier" is con-
structed on the same plan. This extensive row of houses and shops
begins at the lower point of the Tulay delta and stretches straight out
into the sea. The bay is very shallow here and appears to be fairly well
protected from severe storms. A variety of fish called tidaij, after which
the Moro town of Tulay is named, is caught in the bay. A swamp
bounds the town on the south and west, affording it considerable protec-
tion from assault. However, it is open to attack from the sea and from
the east. The land on the east is high and affords the only desirable
site for residences. Here the strongest forts and defenses were erected.
The Spaniards built the central part of Jolo first. They raised it
considerably above sea level by extensive fillings, and surrounded it by
a loop-holed wall, 8 feet high and IJ feet thick, for protection from
Moro assaults. The new town was beautifully laid out with broad, clean
streets lined with doiible rows of arbol de fuego (fire trees), ylang-ylang ,^
acacia, and other varieties of trees, some of which are large and magnifi-
cent. Three parks, each one block in size, added considerable pictur-
esqueness to the place. Substantial quarters were built for the oflBcers,
all houses were painted white or whitewashed, and none of them had
the nipa roofs so common in the Archipelago. Business places, store-
houses, a large market place, a church, a theater, two schoolhouses, and
a hospital were erected and a public water supply provided. A stone
pier was built extending 120 meters into the sea, and provided with a
light-house at its outer end.
The town wall had five gates, two of which lay on the northwest or
sea front, one at the foot of the pier, and the other close to it. Through
the latter gate cargo was admitted from small boats, which can always
come up to this point at high water. The three other gates lay on the
land side, one at the south end of the town toward Tulay, another at the
opposite extremity facing Busbus, and a third one at the southern end of
Calle ^ Buyon, directly facing San Remondo. This last is the only gate
of the three kept open at present and is the only entrance into the town
from the land side. A tower called Torre de la Farola surmounts the
gate. Near the Busbus gate and forming the northeast angle of the
town was the fort or redoubt termed Alfonso XII. It was built on
a prominent eminence and commanded an extensive view of the bay, the
town, and the surrounding country.
In the immediate vicinity lay the Caartel Espanay which was a large
and substantial building occupying the northern extremity of the town,
facing the bay on the side of Busbus. At the extreme end of the wall
beyond the barracks was the tower or blockhouse called Torre Norte.
Another similar tower at the south gate was termed Torre Sur, At the
intersection of the south wall and the beach line was a strong building
called Cuartel Defensivo de las Victorias. The block lying diagonally
between this cuartel and the market had eight buildings which were
known as Casas de la Colonia para Deportados.
Two roads and two bridges connected the south and southeast gates
with San Remondo. Tlie continuation of these roads formed tlie two
main streets of tliis part of the town. San Remondo has six small town
blocks, nearly all of which ai-e on reclaimed swamp land. The buildings
here are mere nipa luit.« and the streets are muddy and narrow, unlike
those of the walled town. Back of the town lies a large cot^onut grove
which extends to Blockhouse No. 2 on one side and Asturias on the other.
A straight and well laid out road directly connects these two latter
points and marks the southern limit of the town.
A good road runs outside the wall connecting Busbus and Tulay.
Later usage has applied the term Tulay to all parts of the town lying
west of Suba' Bawang. Formerly the name Tulay was applied only to
that part lying w^est of Suba' Ligayan, while the intermediate section
was known as Puehio nuevo. The bridge across the mouth of Suba'
Bawang was termed puente del sultan. On the other side of the bridge
this street extends through Puchlo nuevo and along the central strip of
U'laya, or the delta, to Fort Asturias, thus separating the waters of Suba*
Bawang from Suba' Ligayan. Midway between Tulay and Asturias
stands an obelisk-like monument erected by General Arolas and bearing
the date 1892. Further fillings in Tulay have provided for several
streets, the chief one of which is the direct street running to the Chinese
pier and then on to the blockhouse of the playa ^ and the Ligayan River.
A large bridge crosses this river to Tulay proper. The road ends at the
beach a little beyond the bridge. In the central plaza at Tulay stands
a monument erected by (leneral Arolas in 1891 in memory of the three
renowned conquerors of Jolo. On one side the monument bears the
inscription ''A la gloria de los que con su esfuerzo hirieron esta tierra
Espafiola;" the second side bears the inscription "CorcAiera, 17 de Ahril
de 16S8/' the third side, ^'IJrlmtondo, 28 de Fehrero de 1851;" the
fourth side, ''Malcampo, 29 de Fehrero de 1870/' A straight road about
three-fourths of a mile long called the Asturias Road directly connects
Asturias with the main entrance of the walled town. Another road
starts at this latter point and running along the right bank of Tubig
Hasa'an reaches the cemetery on the opposite side of Blockhouse No. 2
The old bridge connecting a branch of this road with the one running
from Asturias to Blockhouse Xo. 2 was washed away by a severe freshet
in 1904, thus breaking what had formerly been a com])lete circle of
roads around the town.
Busbus is wholly occupied by Moros. its houses aie dihipidated nipa
huts built on piles over the water. Back of the town is a marsh which
extends a little way toward the base of the hills. The wat^r from the
marsh escapes into tbe bay by two rivulets, the first of which runs through
the settlement and is knowTi as Tubig riuing; the other is artificial, forms the outer limit of the town, and is called Buyung (^anal. Persons
convicted of capital crimes in the days of the independent sultanate were
tied to a tree at this j)lace and there their bodies were chopped to pieces;
lience the name ^^''Busbus" which means to "chop up'' or "dress wood."
TRADE
Jolo lies about 4 miles from the iK)int of intersection of latitude G^
north and longitude 121° east. It is about 540 nautical miles due south
from Manila and 81 nautical miles distant from Zamboanga. The har-
bor is deep and free from currents. The bay is well protected on the
north by the Islands of Pangasinan and Marongas and is safe from all
storms except tliose from the northwest.
Sulu occupies the most nearly central position of any island in eastern
Malaysia. It lies between Mindanao on the east and Borneo on the
west, and separates the Sulu Sea from the Celebes Sea. The commercial
advantages of this position are unique. To the north lie the Bisayas,
Palawan, Luzon, Fonnosa, China, and Japan ; to the east Mindanao
and Basilan ; to the south, the Moluccas, Celebes, and Java; to the west,
Borneo, Sumatra, and the Malay Peninsula. Besides, the Sulus gre
natural-born sailors, and their famous pearl industry has prompted them
to trade since time immemorial. Their boats brought silk, amber,
silver, scented woods, and porcelain from China and Japan; gold dust,
wax, dyes, saltpeter, slaves, and food stuffs from Luzon, the Bisayas,
and Mindanao; gunpowder, cannon, brass, copper, iron, rubies, and
diamonds from Malacca and Bruney;^ pepper and spices from Java, the
Moluccas, and Celebes. Chinese merchants traded with Sulu long before
the arrival of Legaspi, and while Manila and (^ebu were still small and
insignificant settlements Jolo had reached the proportions of a city and
was, without exception, the richest and foremost settlement in the Philip-
pine Islands. Jolo, with the exception of Bruney, had no rival in north-
east ]\Ialay8ia prior to the seventeenth century.
Such commercial importance naturally attracted the attention of the
early Spanish (Tovernors-General and was one of the causes which led
to the early invasion of Sulu. The long period of warfare which fol-
lowed this invasion retarded the progress of Jolo and reduced its trade.
Again, the rise of Spanish commerce in the\ north tended to restrict the
trade of Jolo. The growth of Manila, Cebu, and Iloilo naturally diverted
the commerce of Luzon and the Bisayas and the north coast of Mindanao
to those cities. The later conmiercial decline of Jolo was probably brought
about more in this way than as a result of actual clash of arms. Jolo,
however, remained an important port and a transshipping station to
Mindanao until a late date.
At present trade has assumed new proportions and is following new
routes. Zamboanga, Kotabato, and Davao are directly connected with
Manila by regular steamship lines, and Jolo is fast losing its importance
as a transshipping port. Zamboanga, on the other hand, is rising in
importance and seems destined to become the port of Mindanao. It is
the capital of the Moro Province and lies in the direct route connecting
China, Manila, and Australia. It has direct communication with Ma-
nila, Hongkong, Singapore, and Australia, and is gradually diverting
the trade of Mindanao from Jolo.
In spite of overwhelming odds, however, Jolo will maintain con-
siderable commercial importance. It has well-established trade rela-
tions with Borneo, the Malay Peninsula, China, and Luzon, and is
connected by regular steamship lines with Sandakan, Singapore, Manila,
and Zamboanga. Practically the whole trade of the Sulu Archipelago
passes through this port, and it stands now, as ever before, as the center
of business, power, and imi)ortance of the whole district of Sulu.
In the early days the trade of Sulu was carried on by Moros and
Chinese. The Chinese appear to have entered the Archipelago prior to
its mohammedanization, and the commercial relations of (^hina and Sulu
are really prehistoric. As hostilities between Spain and Sulu increased,
Sulu traders became less daring and grew fewer and fewer. Chinese
traders, on the other hand, were less molested and conditions encouraged
their increase. The ^'Chinese pier" is a very old business establishment,
and Chinese traders and merchants have resided in Jolo for many genera-
tions. Their number, in 1851, exceeded 500. At present Chinese mer-
chants have complete control of the trade of the Sulu Archipelago. They
are found everywhere and command all the avenues of commerce. The
Sulus have abandoned commerce as a trade and apparently have no in-
clination to resume it on any large ?cale. This is due mainly to the
decline of their power and the present abeyance of their national life. A
new political revival will no doubt change their attitude and may bring
about a surprising development in arts and trades as well as of commerce.
The trade between Jolo and various islands and settlements of the
Archipelago is carried on by means of innumerable small Moro boats and
sloops termed sapits. Formerly such boats traded with Bruney, Sanda-
kan, the Celebes, Java, and all the various islands of the Philippine Ar-
chipelago, but the stricter enforcement of the customs regulations, which
followed the establishment of open ports at Sitanki, Bangao, and Kagayan
Sulu, had the effect of checking trade with foreign countries in such small
boats and tended to concentrate the whole trade of the Archipelago
at Jolo. A review of the imports and exports of the port of Jolo will
therefore throw considerable light on the material resources of the Ar-
chipelago, its industries, and the enterprise of the natives.
